If the old handle is fiberglass , saturate the top and bottom of the ax head with an epoxy solvent and let it sit for five to 10 minutes to dissolve the adhesive. One may also ask, what is an AXE handle called? The axe haft is sometimes called the handle. For general DIY and remodeling use, the best hammers are steel or fiberglass. Wood handles break, and the grip is more slippery. They're fine for the shop or trim work but less useful on a general-purpose hammer.
Other things being equal, fiberglass handles are lighter; steel handles are more durable. Start by wrapping the caulking cord that came with the epoxy around the handle where the bottom of the head will meet it.
Push the head onto the handle , making sure the caulking cord creates a good seal between the head and handle or you'll get epoxy all over. How do you replace a pick AXE handle? Step 3 - Knock Out Old Handle.
Step 5 - Push On New Handle. Step 6 - Fix Handle with Wedges. How long should a hammer handle be? Most hammer handles are 14 to 18 inches long and are available in either a straight, curved or hatchet style. Hatchet style hammer handles are a bit narrower than straight handles. How do you handle a splitting maul? Keep in mind, however, that this will require a lot of exact measurements and precise woodworking.
Remove the old handle. Get out the old handle however you can. Here are a few ways you might go about it: Drill into the handle through the hole in the axe. Once you have a sufficient hole, insert a metal wedge and thrust it out by hitting the wedge with a hammer. Hammer out the handle outright by using a chisel. Don't be afraid to bash it hard. After all, the old handle will be replaced as soon as it's out of there. Saw off the handle, then hammer out the bit of handle that's still inside the blade.
Clean the eye of the axe. Push out the excess pieces with a chisel, then smooth out the insides. Using sandpaper on the inside of the axe will ensure that all of the old handle has been properly removed. The "eye" refers to the hole in the axe blade that the handle fits into. Mark the kerf of the new handle with a pencil. The "kerf" refers to the saw wedge in the top of the handle.
This allows the handle to fit into the eye of the axe. Find the point on the handle where the kerf ends and trace a pencil line around the handle. This will offer a visual reference of how deep your handle needs to go. Test fit the handle. The handle may need few tries to get in properly. Push it in and try to get it in manually at first. Next, tap it in lightly with a blunt piece of wood. Each time you push it in, check how far it gets in based on the bottom of the kerf.
Although you shouldn't apply very much pressure when you're first starting out, this will hopefully give you a proper idea of the measurements the top of your handle needs to be.
Take measurements following each test fitting. Cut down the handle as the test fittings suggest. If an inch of kerfed handle is sticking out, for example, it means you'll have to shave down an equal amount of your handle accordingly.
Don't strike the handle with a metal hammer. Metal risks damaging the wooden handle. Strike in the handle. Take a piece of blunt wood and strike the other end of the handle. Use the handle like a wedge and try to push it into the Avoid excessive force when pushing in the handle. This includes striking it on the ground or using a steel hammer. Part 2. Shorten the handle if necessary. After you have test placed it a few times, you should be able to narrow down how much of the axe's top handle needs shortening.
The handle should be able to fit all the way into the axe blade's eye. If it can't fit, narrow it down to a point where it could fit into and fil all of the hollow space within the blade.
A rasp is a serrated tool meant to cut down wood smoothly. Allow at least half an inch between the bottom of the kerf and the main handle. Fill in the kerf with a wedge. You can do this by lightly tapping a thin wedge of wood into the kerf, and securing it with layers of carpenter's glue. Add metal wedges in the eye. This will add another layer of protection to your axe and help ensure that the kerf's wedge doesn't fall out of place.
Put on safety glasses and work gloves. Drill 10 to 15 holes into the remaining wooden portion of the handle. Place a large metal spike or bolt on top of the wood and tap it firmly with the hammer to dislodge it completely. If the handle is fiberglass, skip the drilling, but use the bolt or spike to dislodge the handle from the head. Insert a small wire brush into the holes in the center of the ax head.
Brush the sides of the hole vigorously for one to two minutes to remove any remaining debris or epoxy. If preferred, you can sand the area with a piece of coarse sandpaper. Insert the new fiberglass ax handle into the bottom of the ax head. Stop when the top of the handle is flush with the top opening in the axe head. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the base of the handle where it meets the head.
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